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Juraj Zajonc: Metamorphosis of a fibre

Pás tkaný na kartičkách - rub a líce zdobené výšivkou. Dolná Poruba, zač. 20. stor.Knitting and loom weaving are two separate textile techniques with many common elements. They can be differentiated through the procedure by which the objects are created. Weaving round a form by a tool containing two mutually crossing threads is known as form weaving. In Slovakia, clothing accessories such as protection for wrists while working and gloves as well as slippers were made this way. In Europe, this technique is regarded as an element of textile culture specific to the Carpathian region. When weaving on cards, the basic tools are usually square cards with holes in each corner. This technique was spread throughout the majority of Europe during the Middle Ages. From the 15th century it started to slowly decline to domestic production. In Slovakia, weaving on cards was used for creating wool belts, which were part of the traditional female costume (they were used around the waist). Craftsmen weaved these belts, often 180 to 250 cm long (with 6 to 8 cm width), with 38 to 40 cards. Since the 1950s, mats and so-called butcher’s bags (for carrying meat and butcher’s tools) were made from a hygrophilous plant called cat’s tails. This production is remarkable evidence of the development of weaving techniques. Other simple weaving or half-weaving techniques in Slovakia were weaving by needle and on little boards. Belts and long strips of textiles were most often created by this technique. Evidence from all over Europe, Asia and America shows that this technique was often used. In Slovakia this technique was used up to the 20th century as part of domestic textile production. Gypsy women most commonly used this type of weaving and, therefore, these textiles were often named Gypsy textiles.




Further articles in the magazine Craft, Art, Design 01/2003:


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